Why Compost?
Food and garden waste makes up a large proportion of what most households throw away. When organic material ends up in landfill, it decomposes without oxygen, producing methane — a potent greenhouse gas. Composting at home diverts that waste, turns it into a valuable soil improver, and closes the loop on your kitchen and garden cycles.
The end result — finished compost — is a rich, dark, earthy material that improves soil structure, feeds beneficial microorganisms, and reduces the need for synthetic fertilisers.
What Can You Compost?
A healthy compost heap needs a balance of "greens" (nitrogen-rich materials) and "browns" (carbon-rich materials).
Greens (Nitrogen-Rich)
- Fruit and vegetable scraps
- Tea bags and coffee grounds
- Fresh grass clippings
- Plant prunings
Browns (Carbon-Rich)
- Cardboard (torn into small pieces)
- Dry leaves
- Paper bags and newspaper
- Straw and wood chippings
What to Avoid
- Cooked food or meat/fish (attracts pests)
- Dairy products
- Diseased plants
- Cat or dog faeces
- Glossy or coated paper
Choosing Your Composting Method
Open Compost Heap or Bin
The simplest option — a pile or contained bin in the corner of your garden. Low maintenance, handles large volumes, but takes longer (6–18 months) to produce finished compost.
Tumbler Composter
A sealed drum on a frame that you rotate to aerate the contents. Faster than a static heap, tidier, and more pest-resistant. A good option for smaller gardens.
Bokashi System
A fermentation-based system that can process cooked food, meat, and dairy — things traditional composting can't handle. Uses a bran inoculated with beneficial microbes. Ideal for flats or small spaces.
Worm Bin (Vermicomposting)
Uses red wriggler worms to break down food scraps into a highly concentrated compost and liquid feed. Works well indoors or in small outdoor spaces.
Step-by-Step: Getting Started with a Garden Compost Bin
- Choose a spot — Place your bin on bare soil (not concrete), in a reasonably warm, sheltered spot. This allows drainage and access for soil organisms.
- Start with a brown layer — Add a 10cm layer of cardboard or dry leaves as a base.
- Add in layers — Alternate greens and browns as material becomes available. Aim for roughly equal volumes of each.
- Keep it moist — Your compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge. Add water in dry weather or more browns if it becomes too wet and smelly.
- Turn it occasionally — Every few weeks, use a fork to mix the pile. This adds oxygen and speeds decomposition.
- Know when it's ready — Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy. Unrecognisable from its original ingredients.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Bad smell | Too wet or too many greens | Add more browns and turn the heap |
| Nothing is breaking down | Too dry or too many browns | Add water and more green material |
| Pests attracted | Cooked food or poor coverage | Remove problem items; bury fresh additions |
Using Your Finished Compost
Spread a 3–5cm layer of finished compost on garden beds as a mulch, or work it into soil before planting. It can also be mixed into potting compost or used to top-dress a lawn. There's no waste — every scrap you put in comes back as something your garden genuinely needs.